Saturday, June 15, 2013

Observations


Date: 6/10/13                                    Time Zone: AKDT [Alaska Daylight Time]
Location: Anchorage AK
Travel Leg of journey: 18                        Day of journey: 35
Miles traveled today:            49                        Miles traveled since departure: 5505
Percentage of travel completed: 50.04%
U.S. states visited today: AK
Critters observed today: moose

Some observations on the long road North to Alaska.

Most of these are since our crossing the U.S. border what seems like ages ago, but was only 5/16/2013.

Signs:
Bridge Sign in Yukon: Tongue River
Business sign in British Columbia: Pet B&B [Bed & Biscuit]
Town sign in Alberta: Entering SEXSMITH
Road sign for bridge: Slippery When Frosty
Sign in Laundromat in Dawson Creek BC:

                                  
Study that one closely. We first thought that this Senior Home group had wild, late parties, going from 8:30 to 12:00. Until we read what was listed for the party meal.

Pulp Non-fiction:
Our RV neighbor in Whitecourt, Alberta was a manager at the largest privately-owned pulp manufacturing plant in the world. It is a huge operation, on a scale that I have seldom seen in the U.S. They take forest growth, which there is lots of up here, everything from full trees, to branches, to bark, and shred, grind and pulverize it down to the cellular level. They then liquefy this mass and chemically treat it to create 151 different pulp product compounds. These compounds are shipped all over the world to make paper products ranging from cardboard, to toilet tissue, to photographic paper. These compounds are compressed into large dense blocks similar to solid concrete for ease of handling and shipping. Who knew?

Sports:
Alaskans and Canucks participate in most of the sports popular in the U.S. Baseball is big up here now. The annual Midnight Sun baseball game is played in Anchorage on the longest daylight day of the year, June 21. The game starts at 10:30 p.m. There are no lights at the stadium. Here is a photo of our motor home taken on May 31 at 11:45 p.m. [no flash]:

Denali NP, 11:45 pm May 31, 2013
                                   

Salmon and halibut fishing is just getting under way now and is very popular with locals and out-of-towners. Fishermen from all over the world come here in the summer to catch their limits, flash-freeze and dry-ice pack the fillets, and return home. We have never tasted salmon so good as the fresh ones caught up here.
Hockey is huge here, at all levels. I heard on radio that they were having training on Saturday at the high school for the “proper way to body check”. Heck, I thought body checking was easy, and needs no formal training, something guys do when some attractive woman comes into the RV Laundromat dressed in her LuluLemon spandex tights. Turns out, it body check training was for young hockey players to learn the proper way to body block [check] on ice.

Animal-human interactions:
There are LOTS of wild animals up here and they often cross paths with people, especially those in vehicles. 90% of the game animals that we have seen while driving, except for in Denali, have been before 9 a.m. Since we have been here a grizzly bear has been killed by a car, and a moose severely injured a woman who came between the cow and her calf. Another cow moose was shot inside Denali N.P. when she charged a man and his family. So far in 2013, 214 moose have been killed by vehicles in the Wasilla-Palmer area alone. In today’s paper were photos of moose with their calves in local public parks, and one of a moose laying on someone’s lawn enjoying the cool and drinking from the irrigation sprinkler. Farther north, in an effort to boost the moose population the game resources people came up with a brilliant idea. Bears and wolves kill about 90% of the young born each year to caribou and moose. So the game folks killed 89 bears [8 grizzlies] in an area as a preemptive strike for the future moose population. Shame on them! I think these folks have taken a page out of the operating manual for Planned Parenthood.

Mosquitoes:
We were forewarned about the mosquito problem up here and have come prepared to deal with it. So far, we have been blessed with very few mosquito problems except in shaded areas, which they prefer. See photos below of one WalMart store with its products for insect control. One entire aisle from end to end, and another aisle plus island displays, at a different locations in the same store.

                                   

Weather:
We have been blessed also with weather. We have had almost no rain since entering the state, very unusual here in early summer. Although the locals don’t call this summer. They have spring [June], summer [July} and fall [August]. The rest of the year is winter. The first town that we stayed in upon entering Alaska, Tok, is considered the coldest inhabited place in North America. The lowest recorded temperature there is -71F. So far here in the central part of the state, there have been 15 days when the daily high reached 70F. Last year they had none.

End of post

Friday, June 7, 2013

Denali

Let's race!
Our recent travel Glenallen-Denali-Wasilla

Date: 5/30/2013                                    Time Zone: AKDT [Alaska Daylight Time]
Location: Denali National Park AK
Travel Leg of journey: 17                        Day of journey: 24
Miles traveled today:            352                        Miles traveled since departure: 5249
Percentage of travel completed: 47.7%
U.S. states visited today: AK
Critters observed today: mystery small mammal, porcupine

Today we traveled the road considered by many to be the most scenic in Alaska, the Glenn Highway from Glenallen to Palmer. It certainly was the most scenic roadway that we had seen so far, and that is saying a lot. We passed more snow-capped mountains, frozen and ice-free lakes, and rivers raging like a teenager’s hormones from the continuing snow melt that is flooding rivers throughout the state. The streams and rivers are called “bank full” when in this stage. We passed debris that had been carried by the torrents: whole trees, the roof of a small structure, an entire shack placed precariously on a small ice-encrusted island. We saw our first glacier, then several more along our way. Alas, the critters were not as impressed as us, as most stayed in hiding all day. We skirted the major towns of Palmer and Wasilla and then took the Parks highway north to Denali National Park, the largest in North America. We soon had glimpses of the majestic Mt. McKinley in the distance almost 80 miles away from us. It is massive. On clear days it can even be seen in Anchorage, 130 air miles from the peak. We passed through the small village outside the park, already starting to become crowded with all of the tour buses, mostly from cruise ships, disgorging passengers for extended trips into the park. The village was a typical national park clustering of gift shops, outdoor adventure outfitters, ATV rentals, kayak stores and aerial sightseeing tours. I went into one, The Fur Gallery, thinking it was a topless bar, but quickly became disappointed at the offerings there.
We stayed in a small park outside town that offered good wifi, TV and cell phone service, the basic food groups for RVers. We dropped anchor here for 4 nights to relax and see the park.

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Date: 6/2/2013                                    Time Zone: AKDT [Alaska Daylight Time]
Location: Denali NP, AK
Travel Leg of journey: 17                        Day of journey: 27
Miles traveled today:            n/a                        Miles traveled since departure: 5159
Percentage of travel completed: 46.9%
U.S. states visited today: AK
Critters observed today: see below

Today we ventured into Denali National Park. We both had wanted to see this massive place in more detail, but were a little intimidated by the length of time the trips take. No personal vehicles are allowed beyond the 15-mile mark. So to see more, you must use one of the tour buses available. We chose one operated by the park service that went to the 66-mile mark, an 8-hour roundtrip. We lucked out and had an excellent driver/narrator who really knew the park, and her job, after 13 years of doing this. This trip turned out to be perhaps the best investment in time of our whole trip! The critters here are plentiful and not shy. This is due to the Park Service mission statement here to keep the wilderness wild. We were instructed on how to help do this by not speaking above a whisper when stopped to view wildlife, and to not expose body parts out of the windows. And even not to eat any snacks at the rest stops so as not to expose the critters there to an easy supply of food or even crumbs. It didn’t take long to start seeing the spectacular critters here. We had already seen 3 huge moose hanging around the visitor center browsing on the newly budding trees. They can easily strip a small tree in minutes. And they need lots of trees since the top out at about 1500 lbs. We also observed the following beautiful creatures:
1 porcupine
18 caribou
6 moose
3 ptarmagin [a grouse, the AK state bird]
31 Dall sheep
1 tundra fox
1 snowshoe hare
5 grizzly bears
The grizzlies drew the most awe and were the most spectacular; 2 sows with their cubs in 2 separate settings. There are an estimated 600-800 grizzlies in the park, but few black bears. The grizzlies prefer the tundra areas where they browse on grass, roots and small mammals. They occasionally are treated to large mammal carrion. These great animals max out at about 600 lbs., far less than the 1000 lb. plus weight of the grizzlies near the coast of Alaska that feast on migrating salmon throughout the summer. We were thrilled with our experience in the park. To have come all this way and not take this opportunity would have been something we would have regretted later, for sure.

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Date: 6/3/2013                                    Time Zone: AKDT [Alaska Daylight Time]
Location: Wasilla AK
Travel Leg of journey: 18                        Day of journey: 28
Miles traveled today:            207                        Miles traveled since departure: 5366
Percentage of travel completed: 48.8%
U.S. states visited today: AK
Critters observed today: moose

Today was a short jog back to civilization in the Wasilla/Palmer area. It was all we could do today to not act as if the views along the way were anticlimactic. We had seen such stunning landscapes and animals as never before, that this may prove hard for us the rest of the way. We are about halfway into our planned mileage for the trip. Denali was as far north as we plan to go. We now will settle down here and in Anchorage to prepare for visits from our children, Jessica and Stephen, and their families. We plan to explore more of this great state with them and enjoy even more interesting activities. This blog will continue, but less frequently for a few weeks.

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